Back Feb 04, 2025

What is ELS cotton and why doesn’t India grow more of this premium variety?

Union Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman, while presenting the Union Budget on Saturday, announced a five-year mission to “facilitate significant improvements in productivity and sustainability of cotton farming, and promote extra-long staple (ELS) cotton varieties”.

What is Extra-long Staple cotton?

Cotton is classified, based on the length of its fibres, as long, medium, or short staple. Gossypium hirsutum, which constitutes roughly 96% of the cotton grown in India, falls in the medium staple category, with fibre lengths ranging from 25 to 28.6 mm.

On the other hand, ELS varieties boast fibre lengths of 30 mm and above. Most ELS cotton comes from the species Gossypium barbadense, commonly known as Egyptian or Pima cotton. Having originated in South America, ELS cotton today is mainly grown in China, Egypt, Australia, and Peru.

“In India, some ELS cotton is grown along rain fed parts of Atpadi taluka in Maharashtra’s Sangli district, and around Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu,” Bhausaheb Pawar, a senior research assistant with the Mahatma Phule Krishi Mahavidyalay in Ahmednagar, told The Indian Express.

He added that the fabric produced using ELS cotton is of the highest quality.

This is why brands producing top-of-the-line fabrics mix a small quantity of ELS with medium staple cotton to improve quality, said Pradeep Jain, founder-president of the Khandesh Gin Press Factory Owners and Traders Development Association. “More than 90% of the 20-25 lakh bales — each bale contains 170 kg of de-seeded ginned and pressed cotton — of the fibre that we annually import constitutes ELS cotton,” Jain said.

Why is ELS cotton not grown in India?

For the 2024-25 season, the Minimum Support Price (MSP) of medium staple cotton was Rs 7,121 (per quintal) while that of long staple cotton was Rs 7,521.

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